A Hard Life

We are currently hauled out in Guaymas; the large Mexican town 10 minutes from San Carlos. The hardstand area is amazingly clean and comes with lap pool, great restaurant, wifi and security, with a view to boot. However, at the end of the day it is the hardstand after all and we take our hat off to those of you who have spent months and months and months living on the hard!

The travel lift here is operated by remote control. Orasio did a perfect job in operating the lift from a small control box he had around his neck. A bit like playing a video game!! By the time the tide was right, it was a little too windy to reverse into the concrete lift bay amid the trawlers! Much easier to take the (new) furler off!! We enlisted the assistance of fellow cruisers, leaving nothing to chance! Marisa and Allan came along to oversee proceedings; Allan is our surveyor and kept an eye on the position of the straps under the keel and Marisa speaks fluent Spanish…a good safety net. Fellow Australians, Karen and Paul (from Darwin, who have just bought their dream boat – a 2005 Island Packet, located on our dock in Marina San Carlos...... they had read our blog and saw that we had done it…) offered their assistance, so all in all, a much appreciated effort.

Although our haul out time was at noon, the semi finals of the FIFA games were on (of course we should have checked the schedule first!) so at 1300, the end of the game (with the good outcome of Espana winning) it all happened very smoothly. (We watched them win the finals too. Great game!)

The pool was the place to cool off and wait for the the props to be placed around the boat. Maybe a little of an oversight as Stolen Kiss is a little bow down!

The new furler was installed by Oscar in San Carlos, with Peter standing by to assist. Peter was very happy to have Oscar doing this, not only because of his expertise, but especially considering Oscar went up the mast 3 times, the last of which was is in considerable 25 knot winds!!  What happened to my man who used to free climb Hitchhiker's mast when I met him????  We are getting to the end of our list, not to mention the end of the bank balance!! All our purchases have been through Defender, who has given us such a terrific discount on all items purchased. They are a warehouse who does not charge sales tax! Some very kind friends who live in San Carlos let us use their mail address in Tucson, so getting bits and pieces here has not been difficult. We have had our autopilot on order for 3 months now, with it finally being shipped today. Peter has decided to go with the Octopus pump rather than the Raymarine one. Our instruments and pilot controls are on the way as well. We still have to figure on how to get the life raft through the border. As long as they don’t want it opened!!!!!!!!

The master has been busy organizing the replacement shaft seal and removing the cutlass bearing in order to find its replacement. He is becoming even more of an expert at this as he did the same with the previous boat. What do they say about practice???? There was a bit of vibration in the shaft, so a timely replacement. Of course the project list grows with the addition of all the smaller jobs. Our rudder looks like it has been used for target practice, which in a way I guess it did as Peter attacked it with his drill. It had a bit of water in it so now it can dry out. Not bad for 20 years though!

The Sierra Madre Mountains inland have a huge impact on the local conditions, bringing monsoonal type conditions in the afternoons in the form of Chubascos (squalls). We have not had one to date, however the humidity is growing. Its rather nice getting back in to the sub tropical life; at least we can justify our daily siesta.

The mountains also bring monsoon conditions to the south of Arizona (the great Senoran Deserts knows no borders!) which we were delighted to see during our visa run…a long time since we had seen virga rain.

Whilst we had to go to Tucson, we managed to extricate Didy and Gorbar from visiting family in Colorado..not that it took any convincing. Although we did not get out to all the nice anchorages (due to the remnants of Hurricane Alex throwing up a horrid sea), we did get to explore the surrounds…and there is nothing like taking a geologist out in an old volcanic landscape! Gorbar was a very happy chappy.

On our short sail (motor sail!) in a sloppy sea we did manage to land a dorado (the second in a month!) which was a sensational catch. Strange as it seems, it was easy to land and just curled up and died once it hit the bucket. Gorbar's idea was that it relaxed when it saw Peter as it thought it was safe! Gorbar and Didy did the filleting, with Gorbar volunteering to cook it. Did he not trust my cooking?

Didy and I were caught out in the galley…a rare occasion for both of us! (Singularly and plural!)

Di and I of course had to have our Pina Colada (much to the amusement of others who have only seen me drinking soda water!!)…..where ever we meet on our sailing adventures, Didy and I celebrate with a Pina Colada! This started in Queensland, around 20 years ago.

We will stay on the hard until the end of the hurricane season in November. It is a little more comforting being on a concrete pad than a dirt pad in times of excessive rain from tropical storms. It’s a similar price to what we paid in Asia, without the monkeys, rats and dirt! We no complain.

The two towns of San Carlos and Guaymas are very different. San Carlos, a predominately gringo town, officially became a 'commissariat' of Guaymas in 1963. Guaymas on the other hand has a long history of Spanish resistance and eventual occupancy.

The story goes along the lines that the Guaymas area was occupied by the fierce Guaymenas Indian tribe, which created enough resistance for the Spanish that they were not able to actually occupy the Guaymas area until the 18th century. The history of Guaymas, due to the early Indian inhabitants, dates back over 2,000 years. The Yaqui, Guaimas and Seri Indians lived in this natural habitat, sustained by the waters of the Sea of Cortez. The Yaqui Indians are still around and come to sell their very colourful wares in San Carlos.

It was not until 1769 that the mission was successful, and the new town of San Jose de Guaymas was named.

Its occupancy was somewhat complex and varied as desirable port city, Guaymas was occupied by foreign military forces and of course pirates had attempted the same. During the 1847-48 Mexican-American War, 2 US naval vessels, captured Guaymas areas taking control of the harbors & town until late 1848, and then very briefly in 1853 by the 'freebooter' William Walker, a French pirate 'Captain Rousset' operating in the Sea of Cortez in 1854 (who, after a 4 day battle was executed for his trouble), followed by the French under Emperor Maximilian in 1865.

At last, the first two decades of 1900 brought revolution again to Mexico, and the port/cove areas suddenly became supply points for General Francisco (Pancho) Villias 'Army of the North'. Not surprising that Francisco is a popular name around here!

Guaymas is today the 7th largest port in Mexico, which is surprising given its shallow depth of 11m at the entrance to the harbour. An amazing natural harbour though as it is, some of its beauty has been lost to the old fishing trawlers left to a rusty death in many areas of the harbour.

The locals are proud of the fact that Guaymas (in the State of Senora) had three Presidents that came from here during the 1920’s to 1930’s. Since then the state of Senora (sharing around 400km of its border with the USA) has its reputation steeped in drug and people trafficking. Although there have been a few incidents (a bit of violence between the drug gangs) we see nothing of it; the same as 99% of the population here.

Although its getting hot (40 C) the flowers are out, the bees still around (the honey is to die for!!) and the beaches welcoming. What's not to like??????????

Its the fishing season......

Life on the local busses is very entertaining..

We have decided to fly to Australia for a few weeks for Barnaby and Anita’s engagement, catch up with family, then some land travel in the USA.

Our current plan after splash down in November is to head south… not sure how far we will get……

La Pazz Continues

Life continues in one place, although we have anchored in 5 different places in the El Magote anchorage, finally settling on the east side of the sand bar, closer to the dinghy dock and a little closer in for protection from the night land breezes. Moving is good as it stops the anchor chain from providing yet another home for all that grows in that nutrient rich water!

The dolphins are still hunting in the anchorage, their position given away by the flock of pelicans that follow closely by, getting their share of the feeding frenzy. It is fun to paddle out and sit in the fray. The wild life is just amazing and having a kayak - even better to get out there. Whilst sitting in the middle of Caleta Partida (out at the islands) up popped 3 very large turtles!

Peter says it is time to move when we start offering information to others!!

Another cruiser says the definition of cruising is ‘’boat maintenance in exotic locations”!

Our 'must fix/replace' list continues as our depth sounder tried to go out in sympathy with our wind instrument and decided not to work!! Bugger! However, the ships master investigated it and got it working again. Phew. We will, however, get new instruments – Ray Marine so they can all talk to the autopilot! What happened to the KISS principle?????

Occupying our time is not an issue as we have sailed out to the islands a few times, enjoyed finding new restaurants and catching up with visitors who keep popping in!

Trevor (brother) and his partner Emma had a flying visit, staying on the Magote. We shared some wonderful meals and it was great to finally meet Emma and catch up with Trevor whom we had not seen for many, many, many years.

Baja 1000 came and went with much fanfare. It is an off road race down the Baja which sorts the men out from the boys!!! Some cars rolled, others collided with the natural elements, but by the end of the celebration, a good time was had by all!

The water is warming slowly but we are assured by the end of May it will be around 28 C. We are at the end of May and it’s 26 C. Our island visits are a way to keep our prop clean and ensure the anchor does not weld itself to the bottom! Surprisingly, the antifouling is holding up well as it is over two years old. As the area is almost devoid of coral, the growth on the hull and prop is just hairy with lots of sea lice! Visiting the islands needs a little thought as the night time Coromuel winds can turn nasty, leaving you in very exposed anchorages.

We spent a week in Marina Palmira fixing the dinghy leak and although contemplated another week there, it turned out to be a good decision to go as a large launch behind us came in with only one engine and only just missed Traveler who was next to us. They would have taken out our dinghy and davits for sure. If you are ever considering painting your dinghy with dinghy paint..DON’T DO IT!! Our dinghy now looks more pathetic being grey with white patches where the paint has rubbed off and red patches where it leaked!

Skip and Cathy from Traveler, whom we had met in San Carlos, finally arrived and we certainly shared some wonderful moments with them. Cathy and I decided that we wanted to go for a walk up the ‘hill’ which boasts a cross on its peak. The gentlemen of course, not wanting to be outdone by the girls, decided to come as well. We were not sure of the track but had heard from others it was a steep, but easy climb. Peter led the way, having no idea of the track. Although we all decided it was not the correct way, we kept going, for reasons totally unknown. So we got to the top, feeling like rock climbers doing the real thing, clinging to the cliff face before finding a goat trail a meter from the top, and the cross. Nice view though..and the way down..easy, peasy!

Another expedition with Traveler was less tiresome, more interesting and very amusing! We hired a car to visit the southern portion of the Baja, including the not so infamous art centre of Todos Santos and the infamous Cabo San Lucas.

Todos Santos boasts THE Hotel California, but it was actually a gag to get the tourists there. Hotel California does not actually exist. We have this on good authority..the net!!

But it does have great food and an interesting courtyard to while away some time with the mariachi band!

The marina in Cabo San Lucas, being $250 USD per night for us, (a tads out of our league), was the deciding factor in not venturing any further south on the Baja than La Paz. Cabo was so over the top with two cruise ships in and a million people (a lot anyway!) on the beach, with jet skis and pangas being very busy. A few yachts were along the beach a little rolling a little at anchor, obviously enjoying the serenity!

A little further on up the coast is the beautiful San Jose del Cabo and the town of Los Barilles. Whilst the ills of Cabo, in the form of high rise development resorts and hotels are slowly creeping in to San Jose, the old part of town is just divine! The beaches of course are stunning but awash with sports fishing boats.

On our way to the airport to meet Barn and Anita, we stayed a night in San Jose del Cabo and enjoyed wandering around the small streets looking at the galleries and enjoying the ambience. We have to confess that we just do not ‘get’ modern impressionist art, especially with price tags in the thousands. We wondered how many people by this art simply to have an Árnold’ (or someone else of fame) on their wall???? It always looks something like the grandchildren could do!! Peter, being very artistic could take up modern impressionist art and make us a fortune!!

Beautiful courtyards are everywhere..very Mexican!

As for Barn and Anita, they can tell you their story, but here are some photos! We found all the wildlife - whales, turtles, seals and pods of dolphins. Barns even managed to catch his bigest fish!

Firstly, we did not want to get them confused as to which blue yacht they were on!!

Anita managed to helm..a little different from her dinghy.

Enjoyed some local food at interesting locations..

Explored the bays

Relaxed like the wildlife..

More exploring...

Lots of zzzzzzzzzzzzzz...

Fishing..

and even catching.....

A little too much enthusiasm of casting saw Barn fall off the boat and climb back on even faster!

Intensive land use...

 thatched palapas that are common in Mexico..

more beautiful beaches

Barnaby and Anita have some very important news to share....

So now its off north for our haul out in 3 weeks time for the hurricane season and necessary bottom jobs!  For the first time we are going to pay  someone to sand the bottom!

La Paz Pazzaz

The vibe of La Paz is definitely something to experience. Although there are many gringos who live here, (or whom the Mexicans call guerita – which although translates to blondie, it means anyone who is fair) it is very much a Mexican town.

Whilst cruising in SE Asia, we had heard only positive things about La Paz. It is mostly famous for the “La Paz Waltz” which refers to the way the yachts sail around at anchor in strong winds in the El Magote anchorage, as all the boats sit with the tide, rather than the wind. We have not experienced winds over 20 knots in here, but it is good holding and a wonderful anchorage. The winds die down at night, except for the night Coromuel during summer. Our stern slaps when held into the wavelets, so when the tide turns during the night, eventually all is quiet. Peter of course, sleeps through anything.

We have added a 135 watt Kycera solar panel, which was cheaper here than in the USA as they are made here. Along with other essential details like more fans, hatch covers with mosquito nets, moving the microwave into the galley from the saloon and making some supports for our companion way hatch so it is now stored in the cockpit have kept Peter occupied.  Although maybe a little small, we purchased a second hand trisail for the big crossing one day.  Now it needs new slides, which Peter has found on the internet.  This leaves 3 items on our main list now - below deck pilot, new roller furling (which means at least a new headsail to fit the track) and a life raft!

Having found many great restaurants, both local and western, we are certainly well fed! La Rustico is fabulously Italian, with the absolute best pizzas you could imagine! Americano is a small café that sells 2 for 1 pie (dessert) and free coffee in the mornings. Peter gets to eat 1 ½ pieces! Life is short….eat dessert first! The Mexican women are very ample in the size department, and I am a little worried that I might follow suite! We have our favourite Mexican restaurants, so gastronomically.....La Paz is IT!

Cruising life is so easy here. Many businesses are contactable on VHF Ch 22, a process which was established before the introduction of mobile phones. The local (American) yachties have established a small club – Club Cruceros, which has a website with a wealth of information about yachting in La Paz and an extensive book exchange. There is a net every morning that has info, swaps/trades, weather and anything else. If you want to know..you just give it a go!

Every day a pod of dolphins go past, closely followed by the pelicans. There is a seal that also peruses the anchorage.  The pelicans amuse us, often diving so close to the boat to get the fishes that think they are safe hiding under the hull. Its a little disconcerting when you are down below and hear a thud and splash against the hull!  There is much of a flurry with the fishes as the boat turns hither and thither as one moment they are hidden and the next they are not!

There are many large stores which sell everything one might want. Local busses are an adventure and sometimes we end up in places that were unintentional! The locals are very helpful and point us in the right direction. However, we are now learning Mexican Spanish, so hopefully we will have more success.

Peter, of course found the amazing Sunday morning market, which stretches for about a mile. It is a mix of people selling their pre-loved goods, along with store owners selling new goods, food of course and other bits and pieces.  Peter found a great shirt made in Hawaii..more of the yacht design rather than the flowers!

The colours, the music and just enjoyment of life with such gusto are so evident here. We can hear the music across the anchorage at times until 0400. The Malecon is the longest in Mexico and it is very much part of life here.  The week before easter is the Mexican's spring break, Semana Santa.  Mexcian families flock to the beaches.  Easter is a quiet religious event without the comercialization of the west.  A very welcome change!

The Malecon adorned by many statues, representing the life here and history.  They are actually cast bronze and have such intricate detail!

This weathered face surely tells a story!

Wyland's whaling walls continue - life size paintings of whales, which he has been doing for over 27 years, in attempt to raise public awareness of the importance of the oceans.  La Paz is one of the many coastal regions along the Eastern Pacific for whale watching.

We had been tracking the yacht Pachuca for 5 months after hearing of her epic journey across the Pacific.  Pachuca is an S&S 39 from Fremantle Sailing Club!  We were neighbours with her for over 6 years on D Jetty when we had the previous Stolen Kiss, and saw her through two previous owners.  Seeing her sail into La Paz was exciting with a sense of familiarity.

Robert (owner) and his twin brother Arnold have been sailing some of this together.  What a wonderful opportunity for both of them to share this voyage.  Whislt Robert lives in Perth, Arnold lives in Seattle. We did wonder about them, when we saw on their blog, they were hove to north of San Francisco when THE storm of the decade went through! Robert will leave La Paz on his own to sail to Costa Rica, then on to Fremantle (possibly non stop) to complete his circumnavigation.  It is always interesting to hear how other people choose to cruise!  We enjoyed catching up with them and look forward to seeing Robert back at FSC next year. (We should arrive back at the same time - but we will be there via the kerosene canary!)

There are many daily adventures and some great finds just wandering around the streets. Some of the houses have a distinct Fremantle feel to them, both being influenced by southern European cultures. There is a La Maiolica pottery studio here, called Ibarra's Pottery, a family run business passed on through three generations. We have one in Fremantle as well. Although the designs reflect each respective culture (Italian in Fremantle) Maiolica refers to the way in which the pottery is fired.

We have found a good bakery which we try not to frequent too often!  Our first visit was a little late in the day so most of the yummies had been sold.  There was, however, a rather large cherry pie that could have served 4 people.  Peter, of course, ate it in one go!

We have now been here for 6 weeks, which is the longest we have stayed in one place since KK, Borneo.

There are many islands to visit, which we have done some exploring, but perhaps better when the northerly wind dies down. Local yachties tell us that this has been the coolest and windiest winter for many years. The water is getting warmer, as are the days and we have even chanced a swim or two.

Many of the beaches are deserted, except for the the odd fishing camp.  Most of the small bays along the eastern Baja shores are only accessible by boat, so often you can be the only person on the beach!

To maintain our fitness we have a new addition to Stolen Kiss!  Peter was unsure of if he wantled to paddle, hence only a single at the moment!  We put a call out on the morning net, and hey presto, we had it an hour later! Such treasures of a bilge. It had only been used 3 times in two years, so a great buy.  It's a u-bute Advanced Elements inflatable, which has an alumium frame inside, a fin on the bottom and tracks very well.  It is an expedition variety with lots of storage space! ( Stolen Kiss'storage is filling up fast!)

Where ever we are in the world, the sunsets are to be enjoyed and we forever look for the green flash..to no avail!

So with stunning sunsets and moonrises, we will hang out in La Paz and surrounding islands for another month or so and wait for Barns (Peter's youngest son and one of three heirs) and Anita to arrive. The last time Barns came to join us was in KK. At least there are no mountains to climb this time, so we are quite safe????????